STEP 1
Remove the right side plate assembly.
STEP 2
Identify the two brake blocks mounted on the centrifugal brake support. These act just like stabilizers on a child’s bike. If you already know how to cast with a multiplier they simply need to go.
STEP 3
Remove the two offending items. With these gone, the reel will cast a lost further.
STEP 4
In order to delve deeper into the performance potential of this reel you will need to carry out a small modification to the magnetic assembly. First remove the spool and spool shaft, etc.
STEP 5
Remove the left side plate
STEP 6
Remove the magnetic assembly. This is fixed on the left side plate by the lifter screw (note the positions of four cylindrical magnets mounted within the black plastic assembly).
STEP 7
With the magnetic assembly separated from the side plate, proceed with removal of two of the four existing magnets.
STEP 8
This procedure can be slightly tricky as the magnets are held in so damn tight! However, with some gentle persuasion they will come out eventually. Best way I’ve found is to make a small hole through the plastic assembly directly behind the two magnets positioned on the outside (which are the easiest ones to get to). You could use a precision drill to bore through the plastic. Otherwise, just use a hot pin to melt through with like I did.
STEP 9
Once the holes have been formed, it’s simply a case of pushing the magnets out from behind. I achieved this by applying firm, controlled force with a steel pin. Be very careful though not to overdo things here as it could quite easily result in a broken magnetic assembly!
With the reel running on the two remaining magnets, the true casting potential of the reel is further unlocked.
STEP 10
Reassemble to reel
STEP 11
Adjust the mechanical brake. Start by turning the right cast control cap clockwise. This should be held gently with fingertips until resistance if felt. Next, switch to the left cast control cap. Turn clockwise with slightly more force and keep turning until just before the point where there is virtually no visible movement in the spool, only slight movement to touch. The optimum degree of adjustment is simply down to trial and error, only experience can tell when this is spot on. Push it just a fraction too far and the spool will lock up. If this happens then best to slacken things right off so the spool becomes loose again and start all over.
STEP 12
In the words of the great Neil Mackellow, balance to spool by laying line correctly.
http://www.planetseafishing.com/tutoria ... ncing-act/
STEP 13
Adjust magnetic brake ready for fishing / casting.
Remember, by following the above steps this means the reel should now be fully optimised for best casting performance. It will be pretty much right on the limit in terms of how far you can push things, so be careful. Small adjustments to the magnetic brake will now make a big difference to how the reel responds. If you are just geared-up for fishing then everything should be running like clockwork providing the mag brake is left alone and not set to anything less than ‘Max’. Tamper with this and you will begin to experience line-lift whilst casting, which inevitably leads to the dreaded crack-offs. On the other hand, field casting with plain leads can be a different story. Providing conditions are right, it is quite possible to ease the mag brake all the way down the ‘Min’ position before casting. This completely opens up the reel, which in turn can deliver some incredible results.
STEP 14
By the way, don’t be tempted to mess with ball bearings!!!
STEP 15
Enjoy
